Description

This Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master reference 168623 in Yellow Rolesor, stainless steel Oyster case paired with an 18k yellow gold bidirectional rotating bezel, is presented with the rhodium grey dial with applied luminescent hour markers, date window at 3 o’clock, and the red “Yacht-Master” text that gives the dial its characteristic point of colour. The watch is in good condition with light signs of use and runs well on the Calibre 2235 automatic movement. This example is offered as the case only, presented on a leather strap; it does not include the original Rolesor Oyster bracelet. Buyers seeking the complete configuration should note that an original bracelet can be sourced separately. The watch head itself is in strong, presentable condition and represents a compelling opportunity to acquire a discontinued Yacht-Master at a favourable price point.

The Yacht-Master – A Sports Watch With Precious Metal Ambition

The Rolex Yacht-Master was introduced in 1992 as something genuinely unusual in the Rolex catalogue: a 40mm sports watch in solid 18k yellow gold. Where the Submariner and GMT-Master had established the template for the functional Rolex, steel, purpose-built, tool-watch aesthetics, the Yacht-Master arrived with a different proposal entirely. It borrowed the rotating bezel, Oyster case and sports proportions of its siblings and recast them in precious metal, addressing a client who wanted the sporting form of the Submariner but in a watch that made no pretence of being a piece of working equipment. Two years after its introduction, Rolex extended the Yacht-Master into two-tone Rolesor configurations and smaller midsize and ladies’ versions, and the reference 168623, the 35mm midsize Yellow Rolesor, introduced in 2000 as successor to the earlier 68623, was produced until the Yellow Rolesor variant was discontinued in favour of the Everose Rolesor family.

Rolex today no longer makes Yellow Rolesor versions of the Yacht-Master at any size. The 168623 is a discontinued reference, and the combination of 18k yellow gold bezel and centre links against a steel Oyster case, warm, two-tone, distinctly of its era, is one that Rolex will not produce again in this form. For buyers drawn to the warmth of yellow gold in a sport watch configuration, the 168623 represents the last expression of that specific combination in this model.

The Rolesor Configuration – Steel and Yellow Gold

The term Rolesor has been part of the Rolex vocabulary since the 1930s, coined to describe the combination of steel and gold that became one of the house’s most distinctive aesthetic signatures. On the Yacht-Master 168623 the Rolesor combination is deployed to specific effect: the steel case provides the sporting architecture, brushed lugs, polished case sides, screw-down crown, while the 18k yellow gold rotating bezel provides the element of luxury. The bezel is bidirectional, rotates on 60 clicks, and carries the characteristic raised polished numerals and markers of the Yacht-Master family; it is solid gold throughout, not plated, and the weight of that material is perceptible when the bezel is rotated.

The movement inside is the Calibre 2235, a 31-jewel automatic with instantaneous date change, adjusted to five positions and temperature, and certified as a Superlative Chronometer to Rolex’s own standard of negative 2 to positive 2 seconds per day. It powers the 100-metre water-resistant Oyster case with the same reliability that has made the Calibre 3135 family, of which the 2235 is a derivative, one of the most trusted automatic movements in the industry.

The Rhodium Dial

The rhodium grey dial of the 168623 is the warmer and more characterful of the two dial options available on the reference, the alternative being the silver/white dial. Against the grey ground the applied hour markers in steel with luminescent inserts read cleanly, the polished Mercedes-style hands carry their luminous coating on the broad surfaces, and the date window at 3 o’clock sits just clear of the inner edge. The red “Yacht-Master” text below the “Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified” line provides the only colour on an otherwise monochrome and grey surface — a restrained and effective compositional decision that makes the watch read as sporty without being busy.

Specifications

Brand: Rolex

Model: Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master – Automatic

Reference: 168623

Case material: Stainless steel with 18k yellow gold bezel (Yellow Rolesor)

Case diameter: 35 mm

Bezel: 18k yellow gold bidirectional rotating bezel, 60-minute graduation

Dial: Rhodium grey dial with applied luminescent hour markers, red “Yacht-Master” text

Hands: Mercedes-style hands with luminescent coating

Movement: Automatic – Calibre 2235, 31 jewels, Superlative Chronometer

Water resistance: 100 metres

Crystal: Sapphire with Cyclops magnifier

Condition: Good condition with light signs of use

Accessories: Case only – no bracelet, no box, no papers

Warranty: 1 year warranty

Availability

This vintage day-date automatic watch is available through Vintage Times Amsterdam.

For further information or high-resolution images, please feel free to contact:

Vintage Times

Vintage Times Amsterdam is a small watch boutique who mainly deals online and with a select group of private collectors. We are constantly looking for rare vintage timepieces and try to present the best condition available. Please don’t hesitate to get in contact for more information about this watch or other timepieces from our collection. We ship worldwide and also welcome you for a visit at our office in Amsterdam.

Vintage Times

email: [email protected]

tel / app: +31 6 4 1111 044