Vintage Watch Dials- The lost Art of Swiss Dialmaking (Beyeler & Cie & More)

Vintage Watch Dials – The Lost Art of Swiss Dialmaking (Beyeler & Cie & More)

At Vintage Times Amsterdam, we are passionate about the often-overlooked masterpieces behind every great wristwatch: the dial. Beyond the movement or case, the dial defines a watch’s identity — its elegance, soul, and presence. What many collectors don’t realize is that some of the world’s most iconic dials were made not by the watch brands themselves, but by specialist dial makers, known as cadraniers, working discreetly in Geneva and the Vallée de Joux.

Among these, one name stands out: Beyeler & Cie, Genève.

⸻

What Are These Dials?

The items showcased here are vintage dial prototypes, unfinished dial blanks, and completed dial references created by Beyeler & Cie — some dating back over half a century. These dials never made it into production watches but were used internally or presented to clients as reference material.

They fall into several categories:
• Unfinished brass dials – baseplates with early-stage guilloché or sunburst patterns, used to show engraving techniques or layout geometry.
• Layout and font samples – dials with experimental numeral designs, including open-ended 9s or stylized Roman numerals.
• Color and index samples – showcasing printing techniques, lume placement, index shapes, or lacquer finishes.
• Completed dials – fully finished with applied indexes, signed “Beyeler & Cie” or blank, sometimes with markings reminiscent of brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Vacheron Constantin.

Why Are These Watch Dials Important?

In the mid-20th century, many luxury brands outsourced their dial production to elite Geneva dial ateliers. Beyeler supplied dials for:
• Rolex – including some rare Day-Date, Paul Newman, and Stella dials
• Patek Philippe – especially classic Calatrava and time-only models
• Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin
• Other maisons who valued discretion and perfectionism

These independent dial makers followed strict brand design codes while often contributing their own subtle artistic flourishes. Today, these dials are not just watch parts – they are artefacts of Swiss horological heritage, often more rare than the watches themselves.

Where Did These Samples Come From?

The pieces shown here originate from old manufacturer reference boards — preserved directly from the Beyeler workshop. These boards served several purposes:
• As reference guides for craftsmen during production
• For client presentations – to select styles, fonts, and textures
• For archival purposes – to record design codes and techniques
• As training tools for cadranier apprentices

⸻

Who Should Be Interested in These?

Whether you’re a seasoned collector, dial restorer, scholar of Swiss watchmaking, or simply fascinated by the untold stories of timekeeping design — these pieces offer unmatched value. They are also highly collectible in their own right, even outside of complete watches.

⸻

Looking to Sell? We Buy These Dials

At Vintage Times Amsterdam, we are always looking for:
• Prototype dials from Beyeler & Cie, Stern Frères, Singer, ZJ, and other historical Geneva dial makers
• Dial sample boards or reference cards
• Unused dial blanks or signed test pieces
• Rare dials with unique textures, shapes, or fonts
• Vintage Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega or AP dials in raw or finished state

If you have something similar — from a watchmaker’s estate, old factory stock, or personal collection — we’d love to hear from you.

📧 Contact us at: [email protected] WhatsApp or Phone: +316.4 1111 044
📍 Based in Amsterdam, we buy globally and discreetly