Description

Presented here is a beautiful example of the Patek Philippe reference 1450, the model affectionately known among collectors as the “Top Hat”, one of the most elegant square-cased dress watches the Geneva manufacture ever produced. Cased in 18k rose gold with a warm, richly patinated gold dial, this manual-wind timepiece carries the long “Patek Philippe & Co / Genève” signature, placing its manufacture firmly in the 1940s. It is accompanied by its original Patek Philippe presentation box.

The ‘Top Hat’ – A Square Alternative to the Calatrava

Introduced in the early 1940s and produced through the 1960s, the reference 1450 “Top Hat” represents a distinct and deliberate counterpoint to the round Calatrava that defined Patek Philippe’s dress watch identity. Where the Calatrava pursued circular perfection, the Top Hat embraced geometry, a squared case with distinctive stepped, hooded lugs that give the watch its nickname and its unmistakable silhouette. Produced in yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, the reference was made in relatively modest numbers across all variants, with rose gold examples among the more sought-after configurations today.

The “Patek Philippe & Co / Genève” long dial signature is a detail of particular collector significance. Patek Philippe transitioned from this longer form to the abbreviated “Patek Philippe” signature around 1948, meaning that examples carrying the long text, as this watch does, can be reliably dated to the mid-1940s or earlier. It is a mark of origin that collectors immediately recognise as evidence of a very early and original dial.

Calibre 9-90 – Patek Philippe Craftsmanship in Miniature

Powering this watch is the Patek Philippe calibre 9-90, an 18-jewel manual-winding movement adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism, and five positions. Small in footprint to suit the rectangular case architecture, the movement is finished throughout with the Geneva Seal standard: bevelled edges, polished steel parts, and Côtes de Genève striping on the bridges. It beats within a snap-on case back, triple signed on dial, movement, and case.

The Dial

The champagne-gold dial has developed a rich, warm patina over its eight decades, the kind of honest ageing that cannot be reproduced and is greatly valued by discerning collectors. Arabic numeral hour markers and a subsidiary seconds register at 6 o’clock are rendered in the original applied style, with slender hands providing crisp legibility against the toned background. The long Patek Philippe signature sits precisely at the centre of the dial, framed by a fine railroad minute track at the outer edge.

Specifications

Brand: Patek Philippe

Model: Top Hat Manual Wind

Reference: 1450 Year: circa 1940s

Case material: 18k rose gold

Case diameter: approx. 24 x 38 mm (rectangular)

Bezel: Polished rose gold stepped bezel

Dial: Warm champagne/gold dial with patina, Arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds at 6

Strap: Brown crocodile-style leather strap

Movement: Manual wind (Patek Philippe cal. 9-90, 18 jewels)

Condition: Good vintage condition with light signs of wear consistent with age

Warranty: 1 year warranty

Availability

This vintage day-date automatic watch is available through Vintage Times Amsterdam.

For further information or high-resolution images, please feel free to contact:

Vintage Times

Vintage Times Amsterdam is a small watch boutique who mainly deals online and with a select group of private collectors. We are constantly looking for rare vintage timepieces and try to present the best condition available. Please don’t hesitate to get in contact for more information about this watch or other timepieces from our collection. We ship worldwide and also welcome you for a visit at our office in Amsterdam.

Vintage Times

email: [email protected]

tel / app: +31 6 4 1111 044