Description

An exceptional and lavishly configured Rolex Day-Date reference 18248 that stacks virtually every factory premium option the model has to offer into a single watch. The champagne sunburst dial is set with a ring of small brilliant-cut diamonds running the inner chapter ring alongside larger square-cut ruby hour markers, a combination known among collectors as the “ruby string” dial. Above this sits a factory diamond-set bezel, its two rows of brilliant-cut stones framing the dial with jewellery-grade intensity. The President bracelet continues the theme, its centre links paved with diamonds throughout. Underpinning everything is the calibre 3155, Rolex’s most sophisticated movement of the era, with a double quickset function allowing the day, date, and time to be set independently. The day window reads in Spanish, “JUEVES” here, Thursday, a detail pointing to original Spanish or Latin American market delivery.

The Day-Date 182xx Series and the Arrival of the Double Quickset

The reference 18248 belongs to the 182xx generation of the Day-Date, introduced by Rolex in 1989 to succeed the well-regarded 18xxx series. Where the earlier generation had introduced the single quickset date function and the sapphire crystal, the 182xx series took a decisive further step: the debut of the calibre 3155 with a fully independent double quickset mechanism. For the first time, the day of the week and the date could each be advanced rapidly without cycling the hands around the dial. Combined with the higher beat rate of the movement and its superior finishing, the 182xx generation represented the most technically refined Day-Date Rolex had produced to that point.

The reference 18248 specifically designates the bark-finish yellow gold case, a hand-engraved texture applied to the case that, in the 180xx series, was typically carried through to the bezel and bracelet centre links. By the time of the 182xx series, the bark option had become less common, making any example all the rarer. The original owner of this particular watch chose to replace the standard bark bezel with the optional factory diamond-set bezel, creating a configuration of singular character: bark case, diamond bezel, diamond bracelet, and ruby string dial — four premium choices, all factory-original.

Gem Setting at Its Most Exuberant

Rolex has always offered factory gem-set configurations on the Day-Date, from single-stone diamond bezels to fully paved cases and bracelets. The combination present here, diamond bezel, diamond-paved President bracelet centre links, and ruby string dial, represents the most decorative factory arrangement available on the 182xx series without moving into fully custom territory. The square-cut rubies at each hour position are set with the same precision as a piece of fine jewellery, their deep crimson offering a counterpoint to the warm champagne of the sunburst dial surface below. The ring of small brilliant-cut diamonds running along the chapter ring creates a secondary constellation of light between the rubies and the dial edge, a detail visible in person in a way that photography only partially captures.

The Dial

The champagne sunburst dial radiates from the centre with a warm, golden tone that deepens toward the outer edge. The chapter ring carries Roman numerals in gold, lending a classical legibility to what is otherwise an exuberant gem composition. At 12 o’clock, the day window reads in Spanish, original market delivery to Spain or Latin America, while the Cyclops-magnified date aperture at 3 o’clock completes the dial’s signature two-complication layout. The sapphire crystal above is flat and immaculate, delivering modern scratch resistance and a clean optical view of the dial.

Specifications

Brand: Rolex

Model: Day-Date Automatic (ref. 18248)

Year: circa 1990s

Case material: Gold-tone (18k yellow gold) with bark-finish texture

Case diameter: approx. 36 mm

Bezel: Factory diamond-set bezel – two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds

Dial: Champagne sunburst dial with ruby hour markers and brilliant-cut diamond string along chapter ring

Strap: Gold-tone President bracelet with diamond-paved centre links and signed hidden Crownclasp

Movement: Automatic – Rolex Calibre 3155 (double quickset day and date)

Condition: Good vintage condition with light signs of wear consistent with age

Accessories: Watch only (no box or papers)

Warranty: 1 year warranty

Availability

This vintage day-date automatic watch is available through Vintage Times Amsterdam.

For further information or high-resolution images, please feel free to contact:

Vintage Times

Vintage Times Amsterdam is a small watch boutique who mainly deals online and with a select group of private collectors. We are constantly looking for rare vintage timepieces and try to present the best condition available. Please don’t hesitate to get in contact for more information about this watch or other timepieces from our collection. We ship worldwide and also welcome you for a visit at our office in Amsterdam.

Vintage Times

email: [email protected]

tel / app: +31 6 4 1111 044